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Monday, September 13, 1999I didn't sleep well last night. It's like sleeping in a new house or apartment all by yourself. You keep hearing strange noises and scratchings and moans. My pad and sleeping bag were very comfortable though but my hips ached a little this morning. I don't know why since I couldn't feel anything through the pad but they always do when I camp. I woke about 6:00 when it got light outside. I had zipped my bag up to the top in the middle of the night as I was cold, I only had short pants on to sleep in, but in the morning it was chilly but not cold. I had some cereal and coffee then changed clothes and brushed my teeth in the bathroom. This is always so cold and a balancing feat since I can't put my clothes on the floor but there aren't usually enough hooks. I spent the day walking along the rim and I went on a geology talk by one of the rangers. I enjoy just walking and then catching the shuttle when I get tired. I kept track of how far I walked but gave up when I was over six miles and counting. It was such a hassle and I just walked and walked. There's a lot of construction going on as they get ready, hopefully, to completely redo the infrastructure at the park. They want to keep all private vehicles out, unless you have reservations, and bring people in by light rail. I think this is a great idea and something has to be done. The rangers are traffic cops more than rangers anymore. They want to redo the visitor center and get rid of some of the junky buildings. The plans are in the visitor center and look pretty good. I'm sure there will be lots of changes before anything happens though. They want to set up most lodging just outside of the park and make the park just look better and be more efficient. I walked through the historic area and enjoyed the architecture. They do plan on keeping these. I looked down the Bright Angel Trail but didn't even try it because I've been down just a little ways a couple times and my fear of heights just panicked me. Even some of the rim walk spooks me and I have to go very slow. I again watched the sunset and then went to the campfire program. It was on the history of Phantom Ranch in the bottom of the Grand Canyon. The talk was very interesting. He showed slides of how they took the long cables down to build the bridge. About a dozen of the Havasupai indians carried each cable down. The ranger told some good stories about the cowboys who handle the mules and the history of the ranch. This was quite a feat at the beginning of the 20th century. Now you have to book the mules two years ahead and about a year ahead to hike down and stay overnight at Phantom Ranch.
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